Planting Sugar Baby Watermelon Seeds
Growing your own sweet, juicy watermelon is a classic summer gardening adventure. With plenty of sun, water, and heat, you'll be rewarded with the perfect homegrown treat.
When to Plant
Watermelons crave heat. Do not rush to plant them in cool soil.
Direct Sowing (Warmer Climates): Sow seeds directly into the garden only after all danger of frost has passed and the soil is consistently warm, at least 70F. This is usually 1-2 weeks after your last frost date.
Starting Indoors (Cooler Climates): For shorter seasons, start seeds in biodegradable pots 2-4 weeks before your last frost date. Transplant carefully, disturbing the roots as little as possible, into warm soil.
Where to Plant
Sunlight: Choose the sunniest spot you have. Watermelons require at least 8 hours of direct, intense sunlight per day.
Space: The vines are vigorous and need plenty of room to roam. Plan for each plant to have up to 8-10 feet of space to spread out.
Soil: Plant in rich, fertile, well-drained sandy loam. Watermelons are heavy feeders. It's best to plant them in "hills." Work a generous amount of compost or well-rotted manure into mounds of soil that are about 3 feet across and 1 foot high.
How to Plant
Create Hills: Build up mounds of soil as described above, spacing the center of each hill about 6-8 feet apart.
Sowing: Plant 4-6 seeds 1 inch deep in a circle at the top of each hill.
Watering: Water the hills thoroughly after planting and keep the soil consistently moist until germination. Seedlings typically emerge in 5-10 days in warm soil.
Thinning: Once seedlings have developed their first true leaves, thin them to the 2-3 strongest plants per hill by snipping the weaker ones at the soil line to avoid disturbing the roots of the keepers.
Care & Maintenance
Watering: Water is crucial. Provide deep, consistent watering, about 1-2 inches per week, especially during the flowering and fruit-setting period. Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the leaves. Reduce watering significantly about a week before the fruit is ripe to help concentrate the sugars and improve sweetness.
Fertilizing: Watermelons are heavy feeders. Side-dress the plants with a balanced fertilizer or more compost when the vines begin to run. Once flowering begins, switch to a fertilizer that is higher in phosphorus and potassium and lower in nitrogen to encourage fruit growth over vine growth.
Mulching: Apply a thick layer of organic mulch (like straw) around the plants. This conserves water, keeps the soil warm, suppresses weeds, and provides a clean surface for the developing melons to rest on.
How to Harvest
Knowing when a watermelon is ripe is an art. Here are the key signs to look for:
Check the Tendril: Look for the small, curly tendril on the vine right next to the melon's stem. When this tendril turns completely brown and dries up, the melon is likely ripe. This is the most reliable indicator.
Look at the Field Spot: The spot where the watermelon rests on the ground should turn from a pale white or green to a creamy, buttery yellow.
Thump It: Rap the melon with your knuckles. A ripe watermelon will produce a low-pitched, hollow "thump" sound. An unripe one will have a higher-pitched, metallic ringing sound.
Cut the Vine: When harvesting, use a sharp knife or pruners to cut the melon from the vine, leaving about 2 inches of stem attached.
